Nothing special, but I thought I’d document it.
The Gameboy Camera doesn’t seem to have any red filter at all, so even the IR from the LED’s, which is invisible to the naked human eye, shines clearly and even drowns out everything else if you come to close.
My other digital camera probably has a red filter, but apparently it’s not steep enough to filter out all the light in the wavelengths of these diodes.
The sensor bar is powered by USB, but why the female type A USB connector? Well, I happened to only have those at hand, plus I have one of these weird USB type A male to type B female adapters. Which will come in handy for powering this thing.
I’m planning start a LSDj tutorial blog aimed at the medium level userbase. But for that I need a Wordpress theme. It should ideally be reminiscent of LSDj somehow, and it should of course look as awesome as possible. Any takers? My e-mail addres is below this post if you have questions.
Draft of of a Reaktor automatron that I’m working on. Warning, contains no chip sounds whatsoever!
About 6 years ago Neviksti managed to dump the internal 256 byte bootstrap ROM used byt the DMG (First model Game Boy) to scroll down Nintendo logo, play the po-ling sound and confirm that the cartridge header is in order before allowing the cartridge to be executed. He did so by opening up the epoxy covering the chip and reading out the memory visually bit by bit though a microscope. This was groundbreaking because there was no ordinary way to read the ROM as it was shut off by an internal register after bootup.
Just the other day, costis dumped the corresponding ROM image from the SGB (Supe Game Boy) with a slighlty different method, namely clock glitching. Costis’ method is using an FPGA to run the system clock normally up until the point where the protection register is to be written. At that point the clock frequency is increased to such a fast speed that the write is ignored by the protection register and the execution continues into the user code, which then dumps the 256 byte big code. The operation was surprisingly painless according to costis himself. Next up is the GBC which is believed to have a bootstrap ROM bigger than 256 since its startup procedure is much more advanced, distinguishing between GBC and DMG, and letting the user choose palettes for monochrome games.
For more info, see costis’ SGB hack page.
GB Camera Sav -> GIF animation converter by Gijs Gieskes
I’ve had the privilege of getting access to trash80’s mGB code, which of course has given me the opportunity to make improvements. My first improvement is to add support for extended MIDI channels. (1-5,6-10 or 11-15 depending on which ROM you’re using.) This is useful for people who want to use mGB on the same MIDI output as MIDINES, other synths or perhaps use 3 copies of mGB simultaneously with one Arduinoboy. (With three link cable plugs).
Sorry for the blog hiatus during and after my vacation. Before the vacation I came up with a new way of routing the audio cable that I don’t think I’ve seen before. (Feel free to correct me.) Most GBC prosound mods I’ve seen are based in the idea of routing the cable downwards to the bottom of the board.
My idea on the other hand is based on connecting the audio wires to the potentiometer as usual, then routing the cable over the PCB, so that it sits below the cartridge when the GBC is reassembled. The cable would then exit through a hole on the right side of the of unit.
The trick however, to make this mod work, is to cut away a piece of the PCB to make room for the cable. The copper trace that is affected, is relatively wide, so there’s some margin. However, it’s for the power supply, so there’s a small risk that you might need to compensate for the loss in size be adding an extra wire. I haven’t had any problems with this yet, but I guess this would depend on how big a piece of the board you cut away. The only slight problem I had was that the cable just barely fit into the space when reassembling the GBC. But it seems to adjusted itself and it now works beautifully.
The wires soldered to the potentiometer. I soldered the wires pre-pot to always get maximum volume and minimum impedance. (I’ll always be connecting it to a mixer anyway.)
The notch in the PCB (Front) - modded vs unmodded board
The notch in the PCB (back)
The hole where the cable exits
Some hot glue to fix the cable
The final product (Reassembled)